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Author: Greg Insco

Finding the Perfect Blend in North Florida

by Sharon Therien

 

A Mix of Culture and Nature in a Columbia County Getaway

I enjoy art and shopping, while my hubby Jim prefers natural surroundings and outdoor activities. One thing we both enjoy is the beauty and serenity of peaceful places. When we planned a romantic getaway from our normal lives, we discovered the perfect blend of culture and nature in Columbia County.

The Grand Dame of Lake City

A historic landmark that’s been around for more than 100 years, The Blanche hotel put us in a romantic mood as we stepped inside. With its grand staircase, pillars and polished wood floors, we could imagine the balls held under the sparkling chandelier during this grand dame’s storied life. Restored to her original beauty, the hotel now serves as a hub in downtown Lake City, which is where we planned to spend our first day.

After leaving our charming, modern, comfortable room equipped with a coffee maker and mini-fridge, we were already in the heart of Downtown Lake City, so we decided to take a stroll down North Marion Avenue.

A Taste of the Arts

Just steps from our hotel we discovered Gateway Art Gallery, featuring paintings, photography, woodwork, jewelry and other handcrafted items by North Florida artists. Run by the Art League of North Florida, the gallery even offers classes. Jim and I looked at each other and decided to do something we had been wanting to do for a long time. We signed up for a class later that afternoon, then headed off to do some more exploring.

Across the street, at Blue Goose Studios, I fell in love with the repurposed furniture and handcrafted items by local artist, Janet Moses. Next door, I discovered more furniture to love at Furnishings on Marion in their chic mix of old and new. At the cute Southern Sisters Boutique & Embroidery, there were so many unique gift items, I couldn’t resist picking up a personalized coffee mug for our pet sitter. After our afternoon art class, we strolled to the other end of Marion, where we stopped in at Treasures of Lake City and discovered a treasure trove of new and antique estate jewelry and furniture.

Savoring the Flavors

We had worked up an appetite during our afternoon of shopping so we crossed the street and headed down the block to Marion Street Bistro. Jim loves craft beer so he was immediately in heaven and began reading through the offerings on the chalkboard. I opted for a Mai Tai from their extensive cocktail menu and admired the exposed brick architecture and original 1905 tiles in this historic former pharmacy.

We started with a dozen gulf oysters on the half shell and a bowl of French onion soup. The house-made garlic crostini, crust of melted cheese and drizzle of sherry put the soup over the top in flavor. For his entree, Jim opted for the Southern-style shrimp and grits. “This sauce is different from anything I’ve ever had,” he said, savoring each bite. He was talking about the house-made gravy made with house-smoked brisket, ham and tasso. I had a taste and it was indeed heavenly. I went with the Chairman’s Reserve signature filet mignon, which more than met its reputation. I ordered it Cajun style, adding blackened shrimp on top because when I heard Jim order shrimp I thought– Two can play that game.

We were enjoying this evening out and took our time, savoring our meals. We couldn’t pass up dessert when we heard they were house-made, so we split a heavenly creme brulee, my absolute favorite. The local musician playing guitar created such a nice ambiance that we took a seat at the bar for a nightcap to enjoy our evening out a little longer.

Serenity on the River

The next day was for outdoor adventure. We planned to go tubing down the Ichetucknee River at Ichetucknee Springs State Park. The park’s convenient tram service helped us get from place to place–between the parking lot, the general store, and the tube launch and pickup spots. We rented a two-person tube from the general store so we could float together. We chose the Midpoint Tube Launch, and after about an hour, we had the choice to get picked up or keep going. We were enjoying ourselves so much that we stayed on the water for an extra hour.

As we floated along, we let go of all of our stress and just immersed ourselves in our surroundings. The water was so clear, it shimmered turquoise. Looking down, we could see fish swimming through the river grass. We floated through shaded hammocks in the cool water, just enjoying the day. It was so relaxing and a wonderful way to spend quality time together away from the distractions of everyday life.

We returned to the adorable Ichetucknee General Store for lunch. It made us feel like we were at an old-fashioned ice cream stand, so we ordered classics that fit the setting. Jim got a cheeseburger and I ordered chicken tenders–both with fries of course. We capped off our lunch with some ice cream– a hand-dipped cone for me and a root beer float for him. In the end, we both ended up loving every minute of our trip to Columbia County, Florida and every moment we shared together.

 

Plan your romantic getaway to Columbia County, Florida

Columbia River Boat

Hail, Columbia County, Florida

Springs are only part of it. While Columbia County only has one city and one town, it has historic architecture, wonderful back roads, natural beauty and wildlife, birdwatching along the Great Florida Birding Trail, and two state parks, one of which is among the most popular in Florida.

But most travelers miss this. Caught in the momentum of I-10 and I-75, they see Lake City and its neighbors as just a series of billboards and exit signs flashing by. But if you’re someone who enjoys the thrill of discovery, ease off the accelerator, take the first exit, and discover the wonders of Columbia County.

A good place to start? The county seat.

In the Heart of Lake City

In downtown Lake City, a smattering of shops including art galleries, a corner café, and stores selling art supplies, folk art, gifts, jewelry, and antiques fill a number of storefronts. Near the shops in Olustee Square, a Florida heritage marker tells of the town that began as a Seminole village called Alligator Town.

Actually, the translated Seminole name was Alpata Telophaka and honored Chief Halpatter Tustenuggee (known as ‘Alligator’ by white men) who was credited for devising the Dec. 28, 1835 attack that became known as the Dade City Massacre. After Alligator and his warriors killed 104 of the 107 troops, the U.S. government launched the Second Seminole War and things didn’t end well for the Seminoles. By the time the Civil War began, the town’s name had been changed to Lake City and the unconquered tribe had left their village and found refuge in the Everglades.

Although the Civil War was seldom fought in Florida, it was only a few miles from here that the Battle of Olustee took place in neighboring Baker County on Feb. 20, 1864. A stone monument by the Columbia County Courthouse remembers the 151 Confederate soldiers who fought and died there. Their bodies moved from the battlefield, they now rest in peace at the Oaklawn Cemetery 10 blocks northwest of downtown.

Just east of the courthouse, a lovely circular lake may well have been the inspiration for the city’s new name – and was definitely a gathering place for a group of disgruntled Confederates. During Reconstruction some townspeople expressed their disgust at the presence of federal troops by stealing several of their Springfield rifles and tossing them in the water. In 1982, divers fished 16 Union rifles out of Lake DeSoto. A more genteel gathering takes place near the lake each weekend at the Lake DeSoto Farmers Market. From 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. each Saturday, vendors sell baked goods, dairy products (cheese, milk, eggs), and locally sourced organic produce – with many items grown in simple backyard gardens.

Local history is shared a few blocks south at the Lake City-Columbia County Historical Museum (157 SE Hernandez Ave., Thursdays and Saturdays 10 a.m. – 1 p.m., 386/755-9096). Inside the two-story Italianate house, a small museum features Civil War artifacts including photographs, firearms, and journals, Native American memorabilia, and rooms decorated with period pieces. Staff can also assist visitors with genealogical research. Hours vary, so call ahead.

Down the street, dozens of late 1800s-early 1900s homes comprise the 30-block Lake Isabella Historic Residential District, which is highlighted by a picturesque and inviting pond that attracts locals who relax at picnic tables beneath the shade of sprawling oaks.

A Walk in the Park

Soon after heading south on US 441, Columbia’s scenic countryside arrives. The drive is soothing and calming and it’s a pleasure to find a country road that links Lake City to one of Florida’s first state parks.

Located 21 miles south of Lake City (five miles south of I-75), it’s natural to connect O’Leno State Park (386/454-1853) with the comedian, but the name is actually a contraction of ‘Old Leno,’ a village with stores, a hotel, grist mills, saw mills, cotton gins and a post office that turned into a ghost town when the railroad was diverted to nearby Fort White in 1894.

A beautiful canopy road that leads to the entrance hints at the tranquility that lies ahead. Just past the ranger station, signs advise drivers to watch for deer and gopher tortoises, both of which share the woodlands with native birds and their migrating cousins who pass through these parts along the Great Florida Birding Trail. The distinct Old Florida feeling you’ll sense is likely because this park was created as part of a Civilian Conservation Corps project. It’s worth noting that what FDR’s crew created between 1934 and 1941 continues to show Florida in its best light, and a small museum that tells their story is open daily from 9-3.

Where the Santa Fe River runs through the park, swimmers ease into the tea-colored waters from a floating dock, some guests renting canoes and kayaks to explore the waterway. Spanning the river, the ‘swinging bridge’ actually does what it promises, creaking from side to side and adding a slight thrill as you cross it.

This scenic bridge, as well as a line of trees that sweeps along the river’s bend, provide numerous photo ops as you explore the park. A short distance downstream, water splashes over a small dam and on each bank, fishermen stand on the exposed roots of oak trees and cast their lines. Wonderful for a day visit, to fully appreciate the park consider staying over. Two camping loops include 61 campsites that can accommodate primitive campers as well as RVs. A great option for educational school trips and church retreats, the historic group camp has more than a dozen sleeper cabins with bunk beds as well as two bathhouses, a fully-equipped dining hall, recreation hall, basketball hoop, volleyball net, horseshoe court, BBQ pit, and fire ring.

The State of ‘Flow-rida’

People who love natural outdoor recreation love Ichetucknee Springs State Park (386/497-4690). Located on the outskirts of Fort White (Columbia County’s only incorporated town), it holds a special place in the hearts of many Floridians due to its beauty, its purity, and its simplicity.

The concept is simple: Within the park’s borders, a crystal-clear river flows for 3.5 miles from the main spring. Traveling via floats and inner tubes, your voyage takes you gently down the stream and places you within the most tranquil scenery on earth. As you go with the flow, sunlight flickers through a canopy of oaks. In the glassy waters, lengthy strands of eelgrass wave in the current and fish and turtles swim calmly below. It is altogether a Zen experience.

When you feel warm, slide off the inner tube and slip into the 72-degree water. When you’re chilled, slip back onto the float and let the sun and the breeze warm you. It’s as pure and magical an experience as you can have in Florida.